Extension Spring Garden Packet III
Published: Feb. 29, 2008
NOTE TO EDITORS: This is the final installment of University of Illinois Extension's Spring Gardening Packet. Thank you for your consideration. Bob Sampson, Extension Communications Specialist.
February 29, 2008
Source: Matt Kostelnick (847) 981-1104 Contact: Bob Sampson Extension Communications Specialist Phone (217) 244-0225; rsampson@uiuc.edu
Carnivorous Plants in the Wild
Carnivorous, or meat-eating, plants are incredible and unusual, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Colors, sizes, prey, and mode of predatory action of these unique plants vary greatly, and different species can be found all over the world," said Matt Kostelnick. "Many can be found in the United States."
Simply put, a carnivorous plant is one that captures and digests animals, usually insects and other small arthropods. But some can feed on small animals, such as lizards, mice, and even birds.
"Most people think of the Venus Fly Trap when they think of carnivorous plants," he said. "Venus Fly Traps--Dionaea muscipula--are very fast-acting, exciting plants to watch when the leaves snap shut on an unfortunate fly that happens across their path.
"Venus Fly Traps are actually native to wet, boggy areas of North and South Carolina. The plant has trigger-traps that snap shut when small hairs inside the trap are disturbed. Once trapped, much of the insect is broken down and used as needed nutrition by the Venus Fly Trap."
Why do Venus Fly Traps and other carnivorous plants eat small animals?
"Most carnivorous plants grow in wet, boggy areas that tend to be acidic and very low in nutrients for adequate plant growth," he explained. "Carnivorous plants have adapted and overcome the lack of nutrients by developing special features for feeding on insects and other small animals.
"The small insects and other critters provide necessary nutrients like nitrogen that are lacking in the soil. Because of these adaptations, carnivorous plants will grow where most other plants cannot."
However, carnivorous plants include more than the exciting Venus Fly Trap. Other major groups include Pitcher Plants, Sticky Traps (including Sundews and Butterworts), and Bladderworts.
Pitcher Plants come in a plethora of shapes, sizes, colors, and forms, he noted.
"Some Pitcher Plants are rather short and stubby such as the Purple Pitcher--Sarracenia purpurea--which is found along the Eastern Seaboard of the United States and Canada and even in swampy areas of the Great Lakes region," he said. "In fact, the Purple Pitcher is actually the state flower of Newfoundland.
"Inside the pitchers are downward-pointing hairs containing nectar which attracts insects. Insects are captured by slipping and falling off the hairs and into liquid in the bottom of the pitcher. They die by drowning in this liquid. Acids and enzymes then break down the insect into a soup, which is used by the plant for nutrition."
In the southeast portion of the United States, one finds a beautiful, slender pitcher plant often called a Trumpet Pitcher--Sarracenia--because of its long, trumpet-like, tubular pitcher. Its habitat ranges from Virginia to the Carolinas, Florida, and areas west to Louisiana.
"These pitchers can get quite tall, up to three to four feet in height," said Kostelnick. "These very beautiful pitchers, coming in many different colors, use an interesting way to lure and capture their prey. The bright colors and nectar trails attract insects, similar to the way a flower attracts insects. Ultimately, these vibrant colors lead the prey to the death pit.
"Additionally, the insects are intoxicated by plant secretions, making them more vulnerable and leading them to their death down the long, slender pitcher tube. At this point, the insect has no escape and drowns. It is subsequently broken down by the pitcher's juices. Although beautiful, these pitchers are so successful at catching large amounts of insects, they sometimes catch too many and collapse as a result of the heavy weight."
A somewhat scary-looking pitcher plant called the Cobra Lilly--Darlingtonia californica--resembles a coral snake and is native to areas of the West Coast, particularly northern California and Oregon. Darlingtonia State Natural Site near Florence, Oregon, is a state park which features and preserves these rare plants in their native habitat.
"Perhaps the hungriest of the carnivorous plants are Tropical Pitchers--Nepenthes--native to Southeast Asia. These plants hang off tendrils or vines. Some are so large and heavy that they actually rest on the ground and have been known to digest animals as large as a rat," he said. "Other animals that have fallen victim to these large pitchers include mice, lizards, and small birds.
"Pitcher traps on these Tropical Pitchers can get up to the size of one gallon, which is what allows them to trap such large prey. Large prey, however, are the exception. Ants are a much more common victim, attracted by the nectars in the pitcher's release. These pitchers also release intoxicating secretions."
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February 29, 2008
Source: Nancy Pollard (708) 720-7500 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Container Garden Planting I
Anything that holds soil and has drainage holes in the bottom may be transformed into a container garden, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Consider eye appeal, convenience, and cost when choosing a container," recommended Nancy Pollard. "Also think about how easy it will be to keep the plants healthy.
"For vibrant plant growth, the container must provide adequate space for roots and soil media for the plant to thrive. You should use containers of vigorous plants to provide focal points, divide outdoor rooms, create privacy, screen objectionable views, accent the landscape, or to grow tasty herbs, fruits, and vegetables."
Pollard added that the choice of container--along with the choice of plants--communicates feelings and sets a mood.
"It can be amusing, a statement of value, clever, loud, quiet, classy, creative, solid, sophisticated, stylish, primitive, homespun, environmentally friendly, understated, matched, and more," she said.
The choice of container material affects both the look of the garden and its maintenance. It is important to ask some questions during the selection process.
"Is the material porous?" she said. "In other words, will it soak up water? Clay or terra cotta soak up water. Wire baskets lined with absorbent materials soak up water. Peat pots soak up water.
"Porous material will lose water faster than nonporous materials. They can be lined with plastic to make the pot resistant to water loss."
If you sink a porous pot into the ground and leave the porous rim showing, it will wick moisture out of the pot. Often the plants dry out and die because the water wicks out of the soil faster than it is replaced. So, if you sink a porous pot into the ground, be sure to completely cover the rim.
"Water in the pores of pottery will expand if frozen, cracking the pot," she noted. "If a less porous material like rock or cement has a crack, then freezing and thawing of moisture will pry open the crack, making it worse.
"Protect pottery in the winter by thoroughly drying it out and covering it securely with plastic wrapping to keep it dry."
Will the container you are considering be heavy to move? This can be addressed by placing the container on a dolly with casters in order to rotate it to take advantage of light or the need to move to a protected place during bad weather.
"You can also place such a container in a permanent spot," she added.
If the container is meant to hang either in the air, such as in a window or on a fence or rail, plan to water it more often. Winds and reflected heat will have a parching effect on the plants, causing them to dry out faster.
"The water may drip on people or possessions below so consider this possibility when determining placement of a hanging container," Pollard said. "Secure hanging items well and consider potential safety issues when picking a spot."
Will the materials, size, or color of the container being considered result in fluctuating soil temperature?
"Metal-container temperatures fluctuate more than non-metal ones," she said. "Dark-colored containers absorb more heat than light-colored ones. Fluctuating temperatures are also a problem with small pots. These create bigger problems in the sun than in the shade.
"Dark-colored containers exposed to the intense summer sun can get hot. That heat transfers to the soil. If it gets too warm, roots are damaged and the potting media will dry out very quickly."
It is important, she added, to protect the roots from extremes of heat and cold by lining the pot with foam or some other kind of waterproof insulation before planting if fluctuating temperatures are a concern.
Will the material rot over time? This may be the case with wood or other formerly living material. Treated lumber will last longer than untreated wood. Choose wood naturally resistant to decay. Examples are cedar and redwood from sustainable sources. Also consider safety issues if wood containers are hanging.
How much will it cost? Is it an environmentally friendly choice? Can it be reused or recycled?
"If it is recyclable, clean the container with soapy water, and then disinfect it with a solution of one part chlorine bleach and nine parts water," she said.
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February 29, 2008
Source: Nancy Pollard (708) 720-7500 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Container Garden Planting-II
If you want your container garden plants to remain healthy be sure to consider the drainage potential of the container, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Container drainage is critical to plant health," said Nancy Pollard. "A hole at the bottom of the container is a must. It allows the soil water to drain freely so adequate air is available for the roots.
"While various kinds of plants have different drainage needs, few can tolerate sitting in stagnant water. Healthy roots mean healthier plants."
Wet soils favor root rots because they leave little space for air to get to the roots. And plants rarely recover from root rots.
"If the pot does not come with a hole in it, figure out a way to make a hole," she said. "One way is to drill. Some decorative resin or plastic pots have pre-punched holes at the bottom for easy removal. Generally, very little soil falls through the hole.
"To keep soil from falling through large drainage holes, some folks use a coffee-filter paper over the hole. Small holes in the bottom of the pot allow the water to drain without losing significant soil."
Sometimes, she noted, a plant comes already planted in a pot with no drainage. The best solution is to take it to a sink, water it, then after a few minutes turn it on its side to allow the excess water to drain.
"Beware of pots with permanently attached saucers that make emptying the overflow difficult or impossible," she said. "I learned about this the hard way when my basil's leaves turned back because the roots were waterlogged--the result of a permanently attached saucer.
"Drainage of excess water is vital for the health of plant roots. It is much better to use a pot with a detachable saucer."
Slipping a container inside a slightly larger one is called double-potting. When double-potting, the plants grow in a pot liner. Often this is a plain plastic pot.
"This allows you to slip the pot liner in or out of the decorative container without disturbing the plant roots," she said. "Check to make sure the plants in the pot liner never stand in water--unless they are aquatic plants. If water accumulates in the bottom of the larger container, remove the inside pot and drain the water from the outside pot.
"Place gravel in the bottom of the outer pot if the decorative pot is deep enough. A little excess water can accumulate in the gravel without the plant roots having to stand in water."
Pollard said it is a myth that a layer of gravel under the soil inside the bottom of an individual pot will improve container drainage. Instead of draining right into the gravel, water "perches" or gathers in the soil just above the gravel.
"Water will not move across the boundary until all available air space in the soil fills up," she explained. "If soil at the bottom of the container becomes waterlogged, the roots have a greater depth with good aeration. So save the gravel for the outside pot. Placing damp gravel in a saucer underneath the pot may benefit the plant by increasing the humidity in the immediate area of the plants."
Self-watering pots use various methods to effectively draw water from a bottom reservoir into the soil without causing the soil to become too wet. Water may be drawn up into the soil by capillary action (wicking) through small soil columns, rope wicks, or the use of moisture sensors. Self-watering containers are especially useful for weekend cottages. People who do not have time to check plant-water needs daily may also benefit.
"Consistently available water is great for vegetables and tropical houseplants," she said. "Imagine a dozen stalks of sweet corn producing ears on your patio in a self-watering container. Plants that need to dry out like thick-leaved cactus do not usually warrant the extra cost of a self-watering container.
"For more information, use a web search engine using the keywords 'self-watering planter,' or 'self-watering container', or 'earth box.'"
Double-potting techniques may be used to achieve several goals such as overcoming the problem of no drainage holes in an attractive decorative pot, to quickly change seasonal displays, to combine plants with different environmental requirements, to minimize extreme soil temperature fluctuations, and to restrain desirable but invasive plants from spreading.
"Sometimes you fall in love with a wonderful container that has no drainage hole," she said. "This would be the perfect time to find a pot liner to fit inside so both you and the plants are happy."
In addition to decorative pots, decorative foil or plastic pot wraps are a form of double-potting. The wrap keeps water from leaking out. To avoid root rot from standing water, pierce a hole in the bottom of the wrapper or foil. Then place the container on a saucer.
"Alternatively, take the container to a sink, remove the wrapper, and then water," she said. "Let the water drain freely out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. After the pot finishes draining, replace the wrapper."
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February 29, 2008
Source: Nancy Pollard (708) 720-7500 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Container Garden Planting-III
Double-potting in your container garden can make changing out seasonal plants a breeze, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Fresh plants are easily rotated in and tired ones out of a large landscape container holding multiple plants," said Nancy Pollard. "Double-potting makes it possible to sink individual potted plants into the landscape--or remove them--without disturbing the roots."
Landscape planters are also good for combining plants with different requirements. For example, plants that have different soil drainage requirements can be combined in a landscape planter if they are in their own separate pots.
On the other hand, if there is not enough light, two sets of plants can be used. As individual plants begin to decline, rotate them back to a higher light area. Replace them with healthy plants.
"It is not always possible to save time and trouble by choosing plants with similar environmental needs or which are well adapted to the conditions available," she said.
Double-potting can also reduce fluctuations of soil temperature. Roots are generally more susceptible to cold damage than are stems or leaves. When over-wintering an otherwise hardy plant, sink the potted plant into the ground. Then mulch over the soil with wood chips, soil or other material to help it survive the winter. The soil temperature underground does not fluctuate like container soil exposed to wind and extremes of temperature.
"Some plants are attractive but spread invasively by underground roots," she said. "These plants invade space that does not belong to them. For example, most people love mints for their fragrance and culinary uses, but they can spread aggressively in the garden.
"To avoid this, sink a large pot into the ground. Then place the invasive mint in a slightly smaller pot liner. This limits the spread of its roots."
The outer container used in double-potting or any container garden use needs to be stable enough to avoid tipping over. It also needs to hold adequate water compared to the size and number of the plants, while withstanding seasonal temperatures and being attractive.
"Shape will determine if a container is stable enough to keep the plant from tipping," she said. "Square pots are the most stable. Traditional pots--sliced-off inverted cones--tip over easily. Pots with straight sides like cylinders are more stable.
"Look for a broader base than height to minimize overturning if that is a concern. Small pots may be 'top-heavy' with plants tipping over more readily. Pots of tall plants may need to be strapped or anchored in place if they become top heavy."
Exposed balconies, rooftops, and decks are especially prone to winds, she added. Consult with a building architect concerning weight limitations when placing pots on balconies or rooftop gardens.
The container's volume affects maintenance. In general, larger plants will need more container room for roots.
Another concern is watering. Succulents that need to dry out between waterings can be placed in a shallow container with little soil. Plants requiring moist, well-drained soil, how4ever, need a larger root ball to guard against drying out between watering.
Given the same number and kinds of plants in the same location and type of container, larger pots need less frequent watering than smaller pots.
"If you plan to go on vacation later in the summer, choose a big pot or a big, self-watering pot," she said.
A plant should look like it fits into the container without being squeezed. Never trim the roots to make the plant fit the pot unless you are doing bonsai. Conversely, if the pot is much too big for the plant or the number of plants, the soil will have a tendency to stay wet longer, making root rot more likely.
"Finally, good looks are important," said Pollard. "Be sure to think about the colors and styles of the container compared to its setting."
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Source: David Robson (217) 782-6515 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Crabgrass
Crabgrass is just one of many annual grassy weeds which cause problems in home lawns, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Its thick, hairy blades can smother the more desirable lawn grasses during the summer," said David Robson. "And when frost hits the plant, you're left with large, brown patches of dead grasses. Unfortunately, in most cases it's too late to re-seed or sod the area."
A proactive approach offers the best opportunity to control crabgrass.
"Crabgrass germinates during the spring and early summer when soil temperatures start reaching 60 degrees F for five consecutive days," he said. "If the temperature cools, the process has to start all over. This is one reason for the extended germination time."
Crabgrass seeds also need light in order to sprout. Thick, dense turfgrass is the best defense, though lawns tend to be somewhat sparse in early spring, especially if they've had previous crabgrass problems or have been improperly fertilized the previous season.
"The primary means of controlling annual grassy weeds is by providing a vigorous, dense, competitive turf coupled with pre-emergence herbicides," said Robson. "Pre-emergence herbicides are applied to prevent the appearance of crabgrass and other annual grassy weeds in turf areas. These herbicides can persist in the soil for several months and control annual grasses through the growing season.
"The herbicide forms a chemical barrier or blanket at the soil surface and just below that prevents grass development from germinating seeds. The new shoots and roots of germinating seeds absorb the herbicide and are killed."
Pre-emergence chemicals should be applied one to two weeks prior to the time when soil temperatures reach 50 degrees F for three consecutive days. For this reason, in a typical year crabgrass applications should be applied by April 1 for best control in central Illinois. Add a week or two as you move farther north, and subtract a week or two going south.
"For extended crabgrass control, apply a second application of pre-emergence herbicide four to six weeks after the first," said Robson. "Herbicides to control annual grasses normally require irrigation following application to be effective, and all turf cultivation activities should precede application.
"Remember to always read and follow label directions for safe pesticide use and effective pest control. The label should list tolerant species, controllable weeds, and application rates. Most herbicides which control crabgrass will also affect germinating grass seed, so avoid using crabgrass-preventing herbicides when seeding."
Sound cultural practices can also help to control annual grassy weeds, he added.
"Don't cut turf too short. Low-mowing can lead to an open turf stand in which weed seed can easily germinate," he said. "Cut turf at a height appropriate for the turf species and season.
"Watch for natural thinning areas such as next to driveways, sidewalks, and patios. Don't forget alleys, which can also be breeding ground for seeds."
Turf should be watered deeply, but not frequently. This enables the soil surface to dry between irrigations. Constantly moist soil surface increases weed seed germination and seedling survival.
"Supply the appropriate fertilizers so that necessary nutrients are available for turf during the spring flush of growth," said Robson. "Fertilizer application during late spring and early summer helps to supply nutrients to weed seedlings and plants. Large amounts of soluble nitrogen may injure turf and reduce turf density, allowing weeds to germinate. Fall applications may be better for the turf as weedy plants use less of the nutrients.
"Control diseases, insects, soil compaction, traffic, and other turfgrass stresses. Maintain a dense turf to reduce annual grassweed seed germination."
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February 29, 2008
Source: Ron Wolford (773) 233-0476 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Spring Gardening Tips
Bleak winter days seem endless, but soon we will see the first robin and crocus will be poking through the snow: sure signs of spring, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"So grab your shovel, rake and hoe and get ready for spring with the following tips," Ron Wolford urged.
Save the mesh bags that oranges come in and use them this summer to dry herbs and gourds. Save pantyhose to enclose individual veggies like melons, corn, cabbage, cucumbers and small pumpkins to protect from birds and insects. Tie the pantyhose off at both ends of the veggie to keep insects out. The pantyhose will stretch with growth and dry off quickly after rain.
"Save orange juice and tuna fish cans to use as barriers around newly transplanted plants to protect them from the cutworm," he said. "Cutworms will chew through the stems at soil level. Cut both ends from the cans and push cans about an inch into the soil around the plants.
"After two to three weeks, the cans can be removed because the stems will have thickened enough to withstand any cutworm damage."
Wolford suggested making homemade seed tapes for small seeds like carrots, lettuce and beets by following these directions: o Cut plain paper or copy paper into long one-inch wide strips o Mix flour and water to the consistency of gravy to make glue. o Using a small watercolor paintbrush, pick up a small dot of glue, and then touch the brush to a seed and place seed with glue on the paper. o Space the seeds on the paper according to the directions on the seed packet. o Air dry the tapes, roll them up and store in a plastic sandwich bag.
"Avoid damping off disease when starting seeds," he added. "This fungus disease kills plants at the soil line, causing them to collapse."
To head the disease off, use a sterile soil medium. Sterilize pots and containers in a 10 percent bleach solution. Sink the containers in the solution for a few minutes and rinse with water. Keep the temperature around 65-70 degrees F for best germination and provide bottom heat if possible. Most of all, avoid overwatering. Allow the soil to dry before watering and always drain saucers under containers after watering.
"Don't rush the growing season," he cautioned. "The frostfree date for Chicago is around April 25 near the lake and May 15 away from the lake. The term frostfree means that there is still a 50-50 chance of frost on the frostfree date.
"Be prepared for late spring frosts. Cover tender plants with row covers, cardboard, blankets, hot caps, or newspaper. Do not use metal or plastic for protection; they can conduct cold to plants. We have had frost as late as Memorial Day."
In the spring, never work your soil when it is wet. Tilling or digging when the soil is wet will cause it to dry into concrete-like clods. Pick up a handful of soil before digging and squeeze. If it crumbles easily, it is ready to be tilled. If it doesn't crumble, it is too wet. Allow the soil to dry for a couple of more days and test again before digging.
Buy healthy vegetable transplants, Wolford said.
"Leaves and stems should be green and healthy without any signs of yellowing or browning," he noted. "Yellowing or browning leaves may indicate an insect or disease problem.
"Gently remove transplants from their tray and check the root system. Roots should be white with visible soil. Transplants with brown dead roots should not be purchased. Check for insects such as whiteflies or aphids. Be sure to gradually introduce your transplants to the outdoor environment over a period of days, especially plants grown and purchased in a greenhouse. When you do plant, water your transplants in with a starter fertilizer that is high in phosphorus that helps to promote root development."
Harden off cool-season vegetable transplants before exposing them to cool temperatures, wind and sun. Gradually introduce them to the outdoor environment over a seven- to ten-day period.
Wolford recommended using a water-soluble starter fertilizer to water in vegetable transplants. A starter fertilizer is high in phosphorus, which helps to promote good root development, getting the plant off to a good start. The most common water-soluble starter fertilizers like 5-10-5, 10-52-17 or 8-32-16 should be used at the rate of one to two tablespoons per gallon of water. Use one to two cups of the fertilizer to water around the roots of the plant.
"When your lettuce begins to bolt, consider leaving the plants in the garden," he said. "The bolted leaf lettuces with their flowering stalks make a striking display. Red-leaf lettuces are particularly spectacular. Pull the lettuce in late summer for a second planting for the fall."
Cut back the foliage of ornamental grasses to about four to six inches. Not removing the foliage will delay the warming of the crown of the plant and will slow new growth. Ornamental grasses can be divided in the spring, especially if the center of the plant has died out or if it has overgrown its space.
"Divide perennials in the spring," he said. "Divide plants when flowers get smaller, when the center of the plant dies out or when the plant outgrows its space. Dig around the plant and lift the clump out of the ground.
"Break the clump into sections. Larger sections will re-establish quicker than smaller sections. Keep the clumps moist until ready to plant."
Do not plant Zoysia grass, even though you will see glossy ads touting its benefits, said Wolford. Zoysia grass is a warm-season grass more suitable for lawns in St. Louis. It is dormant and brown in the spring and fall. It also forms thatch and has to be de-thatched every year. Zoysia grass is planted using plugs that may take three to four years to establish.
"Don't apply a nitrogen fertilizer to your lawn too early in the spring," Wolford said. "Research has shown that in the early spring grass roots thrive, forming a network of deep roots. Deep roots will help your lawn survive hot, dry summer weather.
"Applying fertilizer too early will promote grass shoot growth at the expense of root development. If you usually apply a pre-emergent crabgrass killer combo with fertilizer in April, try to find a crabgrass killer without fertilizer to apply, and wait until mid-May to put down a nitrogen fertilizer to the lawn."
Spring is the time to kill creeping charlie. Creeping charlie has kidney-bean-shaped leaves and blue flowers. It is most susceptible to weed killers when it is in flower in the spring. It tends to establish itself in parts of the lawn that are too shady for grass. Control with hand removal or hoeing before it sets seed.
Prepare lawn for the mowing season. Rake away all twigs and debris. Have the lawn mower blades sharpened, replace the spark plugs and change the oil. Apply the first application of fertilizer in early May. Have your lawn core aerified. This process will pull up small cores of soil to the surface. Core aerification helps to reduce thatch problems, soil compaction and poor drainage. Machines can be rented. Make two trips across the lawn, the second trip perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is recommended.
"Seed bare spots in the lawn," he said. "Dig up the soil and add a starter fertilizer. Sprinkle on a good seed mix of bluegrass and fescue. Rake lightly to mix seed with soil. Tamp to assure seed-soil contact. Keep well watered for two to three weeks until the seed has germinated."
Spring is prime feeding time for rabbits. There are several methods of control that you can use.
"Almost any type of garden center sells rabbit repellents and sprays," he said. "These may work for a short period of time, but will have to be applied often, especially after rains. Remember that new growth since the initial spraying is not protected."
The most effective protection against rabbits is a chicken-wire fence. It may not look good, but it works. Wolford recommended the following: ? Purchase a three-foot high roll of chicken wire ? As you set up the fence, bend the bottom six inches outward at a 90° angle. ? Bury this under two inches of soil.
You want to make sure that you follow these steps because this will keep the rabbit from burrowing under the fence. The remaining 2-1/2 foot fence is high enough that even the strongest rabbits can't hop over. Since rabbits won't usually eat squash, tomatoes, or potatoes, they can be planted outside the boundaries of the fence, but if rabbits are really hungry they will almos