Extension Spring Garden Packet 1
Published: Feb. 18, 2009
NOTE TO EDITORS: This is the first installment in U of I Extension's Spring Garden Packet. The remaining installments will be sent on Feb. 20 and March 2. Thanks for your consideration. Bob Sampson, Extension Communications Specialist
February 18, 2009
Source: Maurice Ogutu (708) 352-0109 Contact: Bob Sampson Extension Communications Specialist Phone (217) 244-0225; rsampson@uiuc.edu
Pruning Raspberries
Raspberries need to be pruned every year, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"You need to prune in order to produce a good crop of raspberries, increase air circulation within the bushes, and reduce incidences of some raspberry diseases," said Maurice Ogutu.
Raspberries are categorized into summer and fall bearing types. In the summer-bearing types, the two-year-old cane that bore the fruit needs to be pruned immediately after harvest.
"Both types need to be pruned when they are still dormant before growth resumes in early spring," he said. "The best time to prune raspberries during the dormant season is before buds swell in late winter or early spring, that is between February 15 and April 1 in northern Illinois."
Pruning is based on growth and fruiting characteristics of different types of raspberries. Raspberry roots and crowns are perennial while the canes can only survive for two years. Raspberry canes are the ones that are pruned.
Pruning tips for red, black, purple, and yellow raspberries were shared by Ogutu.
Red raspberries: Summer-bearing red raspberries - Fruits are borne on floricanes (two-year-old canes). During summer, remove the fruiting canes (floricanes) at ground level after harvest to prevent buildup of diseases and to provide more space for primocanes to grow. During late winter or early spring before bud break, remove all weak, diseased, and damaged canes at ground level, and leave the most vigorous canes which are about one-fourth inch in diameter and 30 inches tall.
"The canes need to be six to seven inches apart," Ogutu said. "Prune the tips of selected canes that died due to winter injury. The plants need to be in a one-to-two feet wide hedgerow.
Fall-bearing red and yellow raspberries - Fruits are borne on primocanes (one-year-old canes) in the fall on the upper portion of the cane and the following summer on the lower portion of the same cane.
"During the summer after harvest, remove the fruiting cane at ground level," he said. "During late winter or early spring before the buds swell, remove all weak, diseased, and damaged canes at ground level, and leave only vigorous canes that are one-fourth inch in diameter and 30 inches tall.
"Prune the upper portion of the cane that had fruit in the fall if the summer crop is needed, and the selected canes need to be six to seven inches apart in one-to-two feet wide hedgerows. Mow the canes to ground level in late winter or early spring when plants are still dormant if only the fall crop is needed. "
Black and purple raspberries: Fruits are borne on two-year-old canes (floricanes). They tend to have longer canes. In early summer, remove the top three inches of the canes when 18-20 inches long to encourage lateral branching.
"After harvest, remove old fruiting canes at the soil line to control buildup of diseases, and provide more space for the one-year old canes to grow," he said. "In spring, remove dead, weak, and spindly canes. Shorten selected canes to eight to 12 inches long, and the canes needs to be six to seven inches apart in a one-to-two feet wide hedgerow."
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February 18, 2009
Source: David Robson (217) 782-6515 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Sowing Seeds Indoors
March is considered an ideal month to sow seeds indoors for starting your own transplants, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. "Starting your own seeds holds several advantages over purchasing plants locally," said David Robson. "First, you can choose exactly what plants or cultivars to sow. You may desire a certain type or color unavailable locally. "Sowing seeds is also an inexpensive means of obtaining a large quantity of plants. The cost of raising 100 marigolds is much less than buying them." It's possible to get a jump on gardening by having plants ready when you want to transplant. Most plants are able to be set outside six to eight weeks after sowing. However, Robson noted, all the advantages disappear if seeds aren't sown and maintained properly. "Seeding success can be attributed to four factors: quality seeding medium, moisture, temperature and light," he said. "Most homeowners use houseplant soil for starting seeds. Packaged mixes are satisfactory as long as the material is sterilized."
If the mix isn't sterilized or the package has been opened, sterilize the soil by placing the moistened soil in a metal pan for 30 minutes in a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven. An old meat thermometer should register between 130 and 140 degrees. "Cooking soil smells, so you may want to place the soil in a roasting bag, or make sure the windows are open," he said.
Houseplant soil should be loose and well-drained. If it isn't, add peat moss, vermiculite or perlite. Garden soil is generally too heavy to use as an indoor seed medium unless it is modified with equal parts of peat moss and vermiculite.
"Some gardeners report success using individual peat pots for starting seeds," he said. "A common type is the Jiffy-7 pellet, which expands when wet." Make sure you don't allow the pots to dry out. Likewise, avoid setting the Jiffy-7 pots in water.
Seeds need uniform moisture to germinate and grow. Part of the germination process involves absorbing water. It's important the water supply is present during the entire germination process. "Too much water, however, can deplete the seeding medium of needed oxygen," he said. "Water only to maintain a moist soil, never soggy or saturated. "Once seeds have germinated and are established, you might be able to reduce the amount of water needed. Do so carefully to avoid wilting the seedlings. Once wilted, most seedlings never recover." It's a toss-up by professional horticulturists which is more important: temperature or light. Both are related and dependent on the other. Soil temperature is crucial for seed germination. Ideal temperature is 75 degrees Fahrenheit. However, the air temperature for seeding should be 65 degrees. Greenhouses can supply bottom heat by placing the seeding flats on steam pipes. Heating cables are available at most garden centers, greenhouses and nurseries to help with home germination. "Setting the seed flat on top of the refrigerator can supply some of the bottom heat needed," he said. "However, the seeds can sometimes be forgotten. "Once seeds have germinated, keep the air temperature on the cool side. In fact, lower temperatures usually produce a shorter, stockier and healthier transplant. Night temperatures can be as low as 55 degrees. Day temperatures should not be above 65 degrees." Light is important for growth. Seedlings need at least 14 hours of bright light each day. Setting the plants in a south window helps, but temperatures may be too warm and produce vigorous but spindly growth. "Plants can be placed under lights," Robson said. "Make sure plants are close enough to receive the maximum benefit, but far enough away to prevent burning. "Plants should be placed no closer than six inches and no farther than 12 inches from fluorescent bulbs. For incandescent types, keep plants 12 inches away, but closer than 24 inches."
Tall, lanky seedlings with a large distance between sets of leaves indicate temperatures too warm or not enough light, he added.
Robson cautioned to avoid fertilizing transplants indoors unless growing conditions are ideal.
"It is better to wait until you transplant the seedlings outdoors," he said.
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February 18, 2009
Source: Nancy Pollard (708) 720-7500 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Bouquet or Salad?
Watching seeds turn into a lovely bouquet or a salad is a pleasure you can share and enjoy on a budget, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"Growing flowers from seed is one of many cost-cutting ideas for a lovely, personalized event on a budget," said Nancy Pollard, who did just that for a family member's wedding rehearsal dinner.
"You can easily find seeds in the local hardware or drug store, big box stores, or catalogues--whether your heart is set on fanciful flowers or flavorsome food. Purchase a few easy-to-sprout flowers or veggies for the young or young-at-heart to coax awake."
For a sunny, cutting garden, she recommended zinnias or marigolds.
"With their growth habits, every time you cut a stem, two side buds push out replacement stems and flowers," she said. "Other annuals easy to start from seed include gomphrena, four o'clock, snapdragon, and cleome.
"Easy salad crops include leaf lettuce, tomato, and basil."
Multi-stem sunflowers are shorter and good for cutting, unlike the common towering sunflower, she noted. Do not cut the main stem, just the side shoots of multi-stem types.
"Cosmos and salvia are easy, too, but do not respond as well to cutting back," she said.
When deciding what to plant, check for the number of days of germination and then weeks to transplant and count back. Some sprouts like squash are ready to set out in just two or three weeks. Others like geraniums may take closer to 10 weeks.
"Buy commercial, soil-less seed starting mix--it is worth the investment," she said. "With seeds, soil, and containers gathered, it is time to get started. For easy clean-up, protect your work surface from spills by spreading black and white newsprint."
Sterile containers and soil-less mix minimizes problems from damping-off disease, she noted. That disease can kill tender seedlings, especially if the soil is cool or overwatered.
"Use a large, clean dishpan in which to moisten the seed-starting mix," Pollard said. "With clean hands or close-fitting gloves, combine the soil-less mix with water so it is just moist and crumbly, not so wet that it drips. If you get it too wet, add more soil. If too dry, add more water."
Fill your container of choice--clean, recycled egg cartons, plastic food packaging, or commercial seed packs--to the brim with moistened soil. After the seeds are planted, it is hard to moisten the soil without washing the seeds away.
"Do not press the soil down," she said. "Research shows that packing the soil stunts plant growth. Roots need air, space, and water to thrive. Gentle misting or watering later on will settle the soil."
Seed should be planted according to the package directions. The recommended depth is usually about two times the diameter of the seed. Plants need space to grow. If you sow too many in the tray, either transplant them when they get two to four leaves on the stem, or use scissors to cut out the extra, making space for the remaining seedlings.
"For seed collected in the garden and saved from previous years, you can find directions for sprouting--also known as germination--for specific plants in books or websites about seed starting," she said. "Some seeds have special requirements to germinate. For instance, lettuce needs both light and moisture to germinate."
Tiny seedlings need a protected environment or careful watching and watering to keep them from drying out.
Pollard said clear plastic shoeboxes make ideal little greenhouses. Fill the boxes with about two inches of soil and not to the top. Topped with clear lids, they hold in the moisture for swelling and sprouting. Fern spores can also be started this way.
"If you have a tendency to overwater, drill some holes in the bottom of the boxes or recycled containers before you start to let excess water drain out," she said. "Place them on a tray to catch the water."
Light provides the energy for plant growth after sprouting. Even on a windowsill, young seedlings benefit from the higher intensity light of a fluorescent shop light six inches away from the seedlings.
"Daylight" bulbs are not necessary for starting seedlings. They are helpful if you want plants to flower under artificial lights.
"If possible, hang them on adjustable chains and raise them up as the plants grow," she said. "Light them for 16 hours each day. If you notice a large space on the stems between each set of leaves, the seedlings need to be closer to the light.
"If you place the sprouted seeds in direct south or west light, and you have them tented with plastic or in a shoebox to prevent drying out, leave an opening to let heat escape from your little greenhouse."
While waiting for tender flower or veggie transplants to grow, plant lettuce seed, onion sets, or radishes in outdoor pots. You can harvest this spring salad before you set out summer flowers.
"Sensitive, protected plants need to be gradually hardened to wind, heat, and intense sunshine," she said. "As it gets closer to planting day, take the plants outside daily for an hour or two. As plants get older, a gentle rotating fan inside for a few minutes a day can help.
"Soon they can spend all day outside, and then the night, too. But watch for freezing temperatures. The plants should have at least two true leaves before you transplant them outside."
With just a few minutes of work, Pollard noted, you can save time and money and will have the pride of proclaiming, "I grew these!"
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February 18, 2009
Source: Martha Smith (309) 836-2363 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Perennial Plant of the Year
There's a new pick for the top perennial plant, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"The Perennial Plant Association (PPA) 2009 Perennial Plant of the year is Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola' or commonly called Golden Hakone Grass," said Martha Smith. "PPA members annually submit nominations and the top five are sent out for membership to make the final decision. Growers, retailers, designers and independent gardeners make up the diverse mix of membership from all across North America and Europe.
"To be selected as the PPA perennial plant of the year is to be chosen from a large cross section of the green industry."
Golden Hakone Grass grows 12 to 18 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide with an arching form that resembles a cascading miniature bamboo. Individual blades are ½" wide and bright yellow with very thin green stripes. Cool autumn weather brings out shades of pink and red in the foliage. Mainly grown for its golden foliage, Hakonechloa does produce tiny flower spikes August through September.
"Hardy to zones 5 to 9, it should do well in most Illinois gardens," she said. "The exception would be far northern zone 4 areas."
Hakone grows best in moist, humus-rich, well-drained soils. If you have poorly drained soil, heavy clay soil or very dry soil this grass will not perform well. Amend the soil with organic matter or aged manures to improve the conditions for Golden Hakone Grass to survive.
Partial shade is the preferred location though more sun brings out the golden foliage color. Deep shade often results in foliage that is more green than golden.
"In my Zone 5 garden, Hakonechloa has done very well for 10 years on the east side," Smith said. "Soils have been amended with compost over the years, and plants are thriving.
"Golden Hakone Grass does spread by stolons but so slowly that it is not a threat to take over a garden. In fact, many gardeners wish for a faster pace! Due to this, the plants don't need to be divided for several years. When division is required, do so in early spring as new growth is developing. Another plus is this shade-tolerant grass has few insect or disease problems and is not favored by deer."
Hakonechloa is a great hosta companion. The golden foliage contrasts well with blue-foliaged hostas and accents those with golden centers or edges. Other companion plants to consider are astilbe, tiarellas, heucheras (coral bells), bleeding heart, and lady's mantle. Consider using it in a container where it can cascade over the edge like a waterfall.
"Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola' brightens a shady spot, compliments purple, red or blue foliage companion plants and offers an oriental feel to a garden," said Smith. "The foliage also catches in the breeze offering motion to your landscape. Go for the gold this year and try Golden Hakone Grass."
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