Extension Spring Garden Packet 2
Published: Feb. 20, 2009
NOTE TO EDITORS: This is the second installment of University of Illinois Extension's Spring Garden Packet. The third and final installment will be sent March 2. Thanks for your consideration. Bob Sampson
February 20, 2009
Source: Matt Kostelnick (847) 981-1104 Contact: Bob Sampson Extension Communications Specialist Phone (217) 244-0225; rsampson@uiuc.edu
Acclimating Plants Outdoors
Taking plants outdoors in the spring time is a breath of fresh air for your plants that have been cooped up in the house all winter, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"When houseplants get a break outside, the get a chance to grow more actively and expose any indoor pests to the elements outside," said Matt Kostelnick. "People also enjoy bringing their houseplants outdoors in the warmer months because they can add an exotic touch to the outdoors.
"For example, bringing palms outside in the summer can bring a taste Florida to the outdoor landscape, deck or patio. But before you rush to venture your plants to the outdoors, there are a number of things to keep in mind."
First and foremost, plants don't appreciate shock of any kind, just like humans or animals. Taking a plant from its indoor "bubble" environment to the elements outside can easily cause shock to the plant.
"One of the biggest shocks to a plant going outdoors is light intensity," he said. "Light intensity (brightness of light) is far greater outdoors than indoors. The light intensity from direct sunlight outside can easily be one hundred times brighter than indoor lighting conditions.
"Plants need light for life, but they don't adjust well from going from one extreme to another."
For example, if you took a tropical plant like Dracaena (Corn Plant) from the indoors and placed it in bright sunlight outdoors, you would find the leaves badly sunburned within a few hours, he added.
"Part of the reason for this is the shock to the plant," he said. "The other reason is the Dracaena does not prefer full sun conditions. When taking a plant outdoors, don't place it in direct sunlight. Instead, place it in an area that is well shaded, like a porch or under a tree."
Wind is another factor to consider when taking plants outdoors. Indoors, plants are subject to very little if any wind. Outdoors can be much different.
"Too much wind outside causes the plants to transpire (lose water through the leaves) very quickly," he said. "Wind also causes the soil to dry up quicker. Additionally, wind can toss plants around or knock them over easily.
"Avoid wind exposure by placing plants in a well sheltered area that is protected from wind. Choose a first day outdoors that is not windy. During times of exceptional wind or thunderstorms, bring the plants inside."
Temperature outside varies much more than indoors. Keep in mind that most house plants are native to tropical or sub tropical regions of the world. Temperatures for most houseplants outside should not dip lower than 55 to 60 degrees during the night.
"Freezing temperatures will kill houseplants," Kostelnick said. "Acclimating plants to outdoor conditions is a good way to start the adjustment to outdoors.
"Acclimating can be done by introducing the plant to a few hours outdoors the first day and then gradually increasing the time outside. After a week or two, the plants should be fully acclimated to the outdoors."
During the summer, plants are more actively growing, therefore using more water and nutrients. Plan on watering your plants outdoors more frequently than you would when they are indoors. However, don't waterlog or over-fertilize the plants either. Use suggested fertilizer rates on the fertilizer label.
The principle of acclimating or "hardening off" seedlings from the indoors to the outdoors is very similar to the steps of acclimating houseplants. Cold frames are commonly used with seedlings in the hardening off process.
"As seedlings are very delicate, they are very sensitive to shock," he said. "When seedlings go from indoors to outdoors, they are leaving their 'protective bubble.' Although the idea of acclimating plants outdoors is to 'toughen them up' the key is to gradually introduce the seedlings to their new environment, not force them into drastic conditions they aren't used to.
"Shock to seedlings (and all other plants) stresses them. Too much stress will lead to plant injury or death and make the plant more susceptible to pest problems. Mild, gradual doses of stress will be enough for the plant to handle, and at the same time, acclimate the plant to its new environment. Also keep in mind that tender annuals need to go out later in spring than hardy annuals. Following these steps will help ensure the survival of your plants journey from indoors to the outdoors."
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February 20, 2009
Source: Richard Hentschel (630) 685-2317 Contact: Bob Sampson Extension Communications Specialist Phone (217) 244-0225; rsampson@uiuc.edu
Organic Matter and Soil Fertility
Organic matter plays an important role in our gardens, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture specialist.
"This is true in terms of the available nutrients for plant growth and quality vegetable and fruit growth — healthy vegetables with lots of fruit or a shrub that has good bloom, berries or seed pods and fall color," said Richard Hentschel. "Most of the nutrients required by green plants are in the soil in abundant quantities. The rest come from the air, soil moisture, and rain water.
"The elements that should be of the most concern to us are those used by the plants in the greatest quantity; nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These are often noted as macro nutrients in books and literature."
When nitrogen is limited, the plant's growth is stunted, off color and can have smaller leaves than normal.
"Even though organic matter releases nitrogen continuously during the season, additional nitrogen can be given to the plants during their period of maximum vegetative or reproductive stages after flowers have formed," he said. "This can be accomplished by the addition of composted manure, dried blood, and fish emulsion or cottonseed meal. These additional materials need to be applied at planting time to guarantee the release of nutrients at the proper time. This is the one nutrient that may need to be applied using a commercial inorganic fertilizer source to keep up with the nutritional demands of the plant for a short period of time."
Phosphorus may be lacking in sufficient quantity for quick-growing vegetables. Soils with pH levels of 5.5 or lower tend to tie up the phosphorus in a form unavailable to the plant's roots.
"Organic materials such as steamed bone meal, finely ground rock phosphate and fresh manure can be added," he said. "Warm-season vegetables are often impacted during cool wet weather that can be seen by the red or purplish color in the leaves."
Potassium is usually in sufficient supply if the garden or flower beds have been receiving annual applications of composted organic matter or manure or have had commercial inorganic fertilizers applied. Gardeners can apply fresh manure or wood ash to the soil.
"Organic matter is Mother Nature's slow release fertilizer," Hentschel noted.
"But more than that, organic matter provides the soil with the right components to build soil structure, tilth and friability of the soil, something that inorganic fertilizers really cannot do. Organic matter also provides those other lesser-used nutrients called micro nutrients, think one-a-day vitamins for plants."
Organic matter also will help sandy soils hold more water and nutrients and will aid the ability of a heavy clay soil to drain excessive soil moisture by adding porosity. To be effective in supplying all the nutrients a plant will need, applications of organic matter need to be done annually.
"There are concerns today for our environment that gardeners do not overfertilize, increasing the chance of groundwater contamination or causing algae blooms in our retention ponds, streams and creeks," he said. "Gardeners should have a soil test done to determine which nutrients if any need to be built up in our soils. Most often, if the pH of our soils is between 6.0-7.0, then the plants will have plenty of food to grow.
"Those exceptions may be at transplant time for vegetables or when transplanting or planting young trees or shrubs. Additional nutrients are typically added then in a transplant solution for quick absorption by the plant's roots and only applied to the planting area itself."
Gardeners should consider composting as a way to provide that organic matter to their beds in the home landscape, he noted.
"Gardeners need to understand that it will take several growing seasons of applying composts and organic matter before the beds become nutritionally self sufficient and that making applications annually is the best way to maintain those nutrient levels in the soil." Hentschel said.
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February 20, 2009
Source: David Robson (217) 782-6515 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Easter Lilies
The Easter season is a time of gloom-dispersing freshness, whether it comes in mid-March or mid-April, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"What better symbol for all the promises of spring than the Easter lily in its splendor with beautiful, clear bell-like flowers and an entrancing fragrance," said David Robson "In return for the pleasure the Easter lily provides, moderate light and simple care are all that are needed to enjoy it indoors for some time after the plant is received." Even better, with a little care, you can plant it outdoors after flowering and it will bloom again the same year. Easter lilies will tolerate extremes that many other plants won't survive. "However, you can enjoy the blossoms longer if you keep the plants out of direct sunlight or warm drafts," he said. "It's worthwhile to place the plant on an unheated but frost-free porch at night."
To keep the plant looking its best, remove the lily flowers as soon as they wither and clip any leaf ends that may brown.
After all the flowers have been removed, you can keep the plant in a sunny window for its pleasing foliage or remove it to a basement window until danger from frost is over. "Should the plant begin to go into a rest period, the leaves will start to yellow and fall," he said. "The plant should then be kept on the dry side to discourage rots."
The lily can be planted in a sunny garden spot as soon as danger from frost is past. Remove the plant from the pot by inverting it and, while gently holding the top, tap the edge of the pot on a step or heavy board. "Open the root ball by pulling upward and out from the center of the ball," he said. "A few torn roots are better than an undisturbed dense root mass that may not be able to establish new roots in the soil. Clumped and matted roots are more likely to die and even injure the bulb. "Place the bulb a few inches deeper than it was in the pot; open the root as much as possible and work soil through them. Thoroughly water the plant."
One-half teaspoon of a 10-10-10 fertilizer per gallon helps promote new top and root growth. Soon after the old tops die, new shoots will start. These will flower later, usually in July or August, if given ordinary garden care. Be sure that trees, weeds, or other plants don't shade the lily. "Although many people report good results, none of the lily varieties are reliably hardy," Robson said. "If the ground is well drained, you can cover plants with mulch during the cold winter months -- just as is done for roses. Mulches of straw, leaves, evergreen boughs, wood chips or ground corn cobs are satisfactory. "Most of the lilies are killed by exposure to winter winds and sun. Mulches limit the heaving action of the soil and, thus, prevent bulb exposure."
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February 20, 2009
Source: Ron Wolford (773) 233-0476 Contact: Bob Sampson (217) 244-0225 Extension Communications Specialist e-mail: rsampson@uiuc.edu
Starting a "Stimulus" Garden
During World War II, Victory Gardens were started all over the United States because labor and transportation shortages made it hard to get fresh vegetables to market, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
"The government encouraged citizens to grow their own gardens," said Ron Wolford. "One theme was 'Plant a Garden: Make Your Rations Go Further.'
"Today in these bad economic times the theme might be, 'Plant a Vegetable Garden: Make Your Dollar Go Further'."
Wolford offered a few points to consider when starting a "Stimulus Garden."
"As in real estate, a successful vegetable garden is all about location, location, location," he said. "Choose a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of full sun. Tomatoes, peppers and all vining crops need full sun. Stay away from trees and shrubs. Trees have shallow roots systems and will rob your garden of needed nutrients and water.
"Your garden should be as close as possible to your water source."
Start small if you are a first time gardener, he recommended. A 10 X 10 foot plot is good for a beginner. Starting with a very large plot may cause you to become overwhelmed as the heat, bugs and diseases of the summer arrive.
"Prepare your soil before planting," he said. "Dig the soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches. Do not dig your soil when it is wet. Digging the soil when it is wet will turn your garden into large concrete-like clods.
"Grab a handful of soil before digging and squeeze. If the soil breaks up easily through your fingers, it is ready to be dug. If the soil stays in a ball, wait a couple of days to allow it to dry. Spread two to three inches of organic matter over the top of the soil and dig it in. The organic matter will improve the soil structure and will add nutrients to the soil."
Don't rush the growing season.
The frost-free date for the Chicago area is around April 25 near the lake and May 15 away from the lake. The term frost-free means that there is still a 50-50 chance of frost on the frost-free date.
"Be prepared for late spring frosts, he said. "Cover tender plants with row covers, cardboard, blankets, hot caps, or newspaper. Do not use metal or plastic for protection; they can conduct cold to plants. We have had frost as late as Memorial Day."
Don't go crazy with your seed orders after viewing all the colorful garden catalogs with their beautiful pictures of veggies or you may be the gardener in your neighborhood trying to give away zucchini, he warned. Grow what your family likes to eat.
"As a first-time gardener, stay away from 'exotic' veggies like kohlrabi or hard-to-grow veggies like cauliflower or head lettuce," he said. "Grow hybrid vegetables. Hybrid vegetables are usually stronger and healthier than other vegetables. They often have higher yields. Many have a built-in disease resistance."
Draw a plan of your garden. It doesn't have to be a fancy diagram. Remember that the tallest plants in your garden such as sweet corn should be at the north end of the garden and permanent vegetables like asparagus should be along the side of the garden.
"After digging your soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches, break up any large clods with a rake," he said. "Use the rake to prepare a smooth seedbed. Spread 1-1/2 pounds of a vegetable garden fertilizer over every 100 square feet of your vegetable garden. A 1-pound coffee can hold 1-1/2 pounds of fertilizer. Rake the fertilizer into the top two to four inches of soil."
Before seeding, be sure you have created a smooth seedbed. To avoid compacting the soil, try to avoid walking over areas you will be seeding and planting.
Be sure to follow the directions on the seed packet for planting depth of seeds. As a general rule seeds should be planted to a depth two to four times their diameter or largest width. Cover the seed with soil and tamp it down with the back of your hoe. Water lightly and keep moist until germination occurs.
"Buy healthy vegetable transplants" said Wolford. "Leaves and stems should be green and healthy without any signs of yellowing or browning. Yellowing or browning leaves may indicate an insect or disease problem.
"Gently remove transplants from their tray and check the root system. Roots should be white with visible soil. Transplants with brown dead roots should not be purchased. Check for insects such as whiteflies or aphids. Be sure to gradually introduce your transplants to the outdoor environment over a period of days, especially plants grown and purchased in a greenhouse. When you do plant, water your transplants in with a starter fertilizer that is high in phosphorus which helps to promote root development."
Vegetable plants on average will need about one inch of water per week. Place a few straight-sided cans, for example, a tuna fish can in the garden when watering with an overhead sprinkler. An inch of water in the cans is an indication your garden has received the inch of water it needs.
"Try soaker hoses in the vegetable garden," he said. "These have numerous tiny holes on one side of the hose. They are very efficient, reducing runoff and evaporation.
"Do not water during the hottest part of the day or else you will lose 50 percent of the water applied through evaporation. Water early enough in the day, so plants will have time to dry off. Watering plants late in the day will provide conditions for diseases to develop. Water deeply, at least 6-8 inches deep. Watering deeply promotes deep root development, which helps the plant tap moisture during dry spells."
Insect populations vary from year to year. Last year for example, we saw a larger number of tomato hornworms than usual. Spraying insecticides should be a last resort. Never spray without identifying the insect first. Try non-chemical methods of control first, such as hand-picking, insecticidal soaps and microbial insecticides.
"Time plantings to avoid insect problems," he suggested. "For instance, to avoid the worst time for squash vine borer, plant squash so it can be harvested by July. "Use floating row covers to protect plants such as cabbage and cauliflower from insects. Crops like squash and cucumbers require bees for pollination. Remove the row covers once flowers form."
The best way to prevent diseases in the vegetable garden is to buy disease-resistant varieties. Space plants properly to provide good air circulation to help control disease. Stake or cage plants and allow proper spacing.
"Rotating crops in the garden from year to year can also reduce disease problems," he said.
Harvest vegetables when ripe. Avoid bruising vegetables when harvesting. Tomatoes may have to be harvested before they are fully ripe to keep them from becoming squirrel food. To avoid the squirrels, pick tomatoes when they have a pink color and let them ripen indoors.
Wolford recommended a number of websites to help home gardeners:
Food Preservation
Ask a Master Food Preserver Get your food preservation and food safety questions answered by a Master Food Preserver http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/county/survey.cfm?sID=380
Garden Help
Watch Your Garden Grow A guide to growing, storing and preparing vegetables http://urbanext.illinois.edu/veggies/
Illinois Vegetable Garden Guide A guide to growing and exhibiting vegetables http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/vegguide/
Ask a Chicago Master Gardener Get your veggie garden questions answered by a Master Gardener http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/county/survey.cfm?sID=368
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